Festivities in the Azores are often linked to some religious event, no wonder as according to statistics more than 80% of Portuguese define themselves as Roman Catholic. Even though, only about 20% are exercising their faith beyond main live events such as baptizing their children or marrying in church. We, being atheists, could experience the last weeks here in Feteira the annual festivities of the Holy Spirit. The Azores are the home of the cult of the Empire of the Holy Spirit, a mystic cult dating back to the 13th century which was brought to the islands with the first settlers two hundred years later. The festivities are organized by brotherhoods of the Divine Holy Spirit which are deeply rooted in Azorean traditions and take also an important role in charity. Interestingly, the cult of the Holy Spirit is formally independent of the official organization of the Church but being a religious event obviously the Church has its role in blessing the events and holding masses. The festivities begin at Easter and last for about two months with processions and celebrations at small chapels, “impérios”, situated around the villages. Here in Feteira there are seven impérios, each of which has its own brotherhood with its members from the neighbourhood, which celebrate at seven consecutive weekends after Easter. I signed up some time ago for a small trail running event here in Fetira. I thought that this will be a good occasion of getting to know the pastures of our neighbourhood. It turned out, that not only geographically we better got to know our new home, but culturally as well. Our friends enlightened us about the background of the event, yes, it is running, but as part of the Holy Spirit celebrations. Each weekend there is a small stage set up at one of the impérios and besides the procession there are events, such as running, mountain bike or Zumba dance and a party with traditional dances, local brass band, DJ, karaoke, kids running around until late and of course food and drinks – everything needed for a good neighbourly getting together. Yes, Portugal and the Azores are religious places, but I have to say even for an atheist the most enjoyable and cordial kind.
